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Bridging Finance: How to Buy Before You Sell

Aug 31
5 min read

You've found the next place. It's right, it's available now, and your current home hasn't even hit the market yet. This is the classic upgrader's problem: the timing rarely lines up, and nobody wants to lose the home they actually want while they wait for their own to sell.

Bridging finance is built for exactly this gap. It's a short term loan that lets you buy the new property before the old one sells, then tidies itself up once the sale goes through. It's a useful bit of kit, but the mechanics trip people up, so let's walk through how it really works.

The two numbers that matter: peak debt and end debt

Almost everything about bridging finance comes back to two figures.

Peak debt is the total you owe at the high point, while you own both properties. It's your existing loan, plus the purchase price of the new home, plus buying costs like stamp duty and legals.

End debt is what you're left owing once your old home sells and the sale proceeds are applied to knock the debt down. This is the loan you'll actually live with for the long haul, so it's the number that matters most.

The whole structure is designed to take you from peak debt down to a manageable end debt in a short window.

A worked example

Say your current home is worth $900,000 and you still owe $300,000 on it. You buy a new place for $1,100,000, with about $60,000 in stamp duty and costs.

Your peak debt is $300,000 plus $1,100,000 plus $60,000, which comes to $1,460,000. That's the amount you owe while you own both homes.

Now your old home sells for $900,000. After selling costs of around $25,000, you net about $875,000, and that goes straight onto the peak debt.

Your end debt is $1,460,000 minus $875,000, which leaves roughly $585,000. That's the loan you carry forward, and it's the figure the lender needs to be confident you can comfortably service.

Closed versus open bridging

Lenders treat two situations quite differently, and it's worth knowing which one you're in.

Closed bridging is where your existing property is already sold, with a signed contract and a settlement date locked in. The lender knows almost exactly how much will come off the peak debt and when. This is the lower risk version, and lenders are far more comfortable with it.

Open bridging is where you haven't sold yet. You're buying first and hoping the sale follows. Lenders will still consider it, but they're more cautious, they'll want a realistic valuation on your existing home, and they'll usually build in a conservative estimate of what it will fetch. The term tends to be shorter too.

If you can line up a sale before you commit, you'll get a smoother run. It isn't always possible, and that's fine, but it changes the shape of the deal.

How the interest usually works

Here's a feature that surprises people in a good way. During the bridging period, many lenders don't ask you to make repayments on the full peak debt. Instead, the interest is capitalised, meaning it's added onto the loan balance while you own both properties.

The logic is sensible. You're already covering the running costs of two homes, and asking you to also service repayments on $1.46 million at the same time would sink most budgets. So the interest quietly accrues, then gets cleared out when your old home sells.

The catch is that capitalised interest makes your debt grow while you're bridging, so the longer it takes to sell, the more it costs. That's the trade off, and it's why the term is kept short.

How long you get

Bridging terms are deliberately tight. For selling an existing established home, six months is a common window. If you're bridging to a new build or construction, lenders will often stretch it to around twelve months to account for the build timeline.

The clock matters. If your old home hasn't sold by the end of the term, you can end up under real pressure, which is the single biggest risk in the whole arrangement.

What lenders check before saying yes

Bridging isn't a free pass, and there are a few gates to clear.

The first is the end debt. The lender assesses whether you can service that ongoing loan on your income, using the same buffered assessment rate they'd apply to any mortgage. If the end debt is comfortable, you're most of the way there.

The second is the equity position. Lenders want your peak debt to sit at a sensible level against the combined value of both properties, typically keeping the loan to value ratio under a set threshold so there's a buffer if your old home sells for less than hoped.

The third is a realistic sale price. Especially with open bridging, the lender will lean on a valuation rather than your optimism, and they'll often shave a margin off it to be safe.

The risks worth taking seriously

Bridging finance works well when it works, but it has sharp edges.

If your existing home sells for less than expected, your end debt is higher than planned, and you're stuck with it. If it takes longer to sell than the term allows, you can face pressure to accept a lower offer just to get the sale done. And because interest is capitalising the whole time, a slow sale quietly costs you more.

The way to manage all of this is to be conservative with your assumptions from the start. Price your existing home realistically, not hopefully, and build in a margin. If the numbers still work on cautious figures, you're on solid ground.

If your existing property is an investment rather than your home, there can also be capital gains tax consequences when you sell. That's a question for your accountant, not your broker, and worth sorting out early.

The alternatives worth weighing

Bridging isn't the only way to solve a timing mismatch.

You might align settlement dates so the sale and purchase happen close together, sidestepping the need to own both at once. You might sell first and rent for a short stretch, which removes the pressure entirely but means moving twice. Or, if you have enough equity, you might release some of it to fund the new purchase without a formal bridging structure.

Each of these suits different situations, and the right choice depends on your equity, your timeline, and how much certainty you want.

Where to from here

Bridging finance can be the difference between securing the home you want and watching it go to someone else, but it lives and dies on the numbers, and getting the peak debt, end debt, and term right is what keeps it comfortable rather than stressful.

Get in touch with the team at Claremont Financial and we'll run your figures properly, work out whether bridging is the right move or whether another structure suits you better, and make sure the plan holds up even if your sale takes longer than you'd like.

Rates, lender policies, and thresholds mentioned here are current as at the date of publishing and can change.

Disclaimer: This is general information only and does not constitute financial advice. Your situation is unique, so chat with the team at Claremont Financial to get guidance tailored to you.

 
 
 

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